Grainline Studio Scout Tee in Atelier Brunette Tabby Shell Viscose.
I am a real fan of the new and past ranges of Atelier Brunette fabrics, the quality speaks for itself and the designs are always so beautiful. Previously I have made blouses with the both the Atelier Brunette Gauze and cotton viscose so this time around I wanted to try something different. I settled on the Tabby Shell Viscose and was so excited when it arrived. The first thing I noted, as always, was just how stunning it is. However, unlike my previous choices this fabric is very sheer and if it is your intention to make a dress or skirt with it, it will most certainly need to be lined. Blouses and tees will just require a little camisole underneath. That said, with this sheerness comes a fantastic drape and femininity. I knew that the fabric could speak for itself and required little fuss so I settled on a very basic pattern – the Grainline Studio Scout Tee. I just knew that it would be a little stunner tucked into jeans or a skirt so with this all in mind I set to work!
This pattern is incredibly basic, suitable for a beginner sewer or just a satisfying quick sew for the more seasoned sewists out there! I have made the pattern a few times and make it in a slightly different order to the pattern instructions! First things first I like to make my binding up, it’s a process that I don’t enjoy particularly but the end result is always worth the effort!
Scout Tee Binding
I know there are little gadgets out there to make this process more simple but when, as in this case, it is just for the neckline I just make it myself. This pattern comes with a binding pattern piece so you don’t even need to measure it out yourself! Once my binding is made up, I’m generally keen to sew the neckline! So, I sew the tee at the shoulders and side seams as per pattern guidance so I can then make a start on the neckline. A little tip – when fabric is this fine I find it is much easier to use wonder clips as opposed to pins, it holds the fabric in place much better both in preparation for sewing and when actually sewing.
Sewing Tee Together
Next comes my favourite part – the neckline! I’m a fan of a well finished neckline. You really must take your time here, a neckline in my opinion can make or break a garment! If it’s done well it sits beautifully and looks amazing – done poorly, it can ripple away from the chest, binding can show on the outside of the garment…it can pucker…! The list goes on and I only know this because I’ve obviously been there! It is so hard to rectify a mistake with such a fine fabric so the key really is take your time. This is not a difficult process, it just needs good attention and time. I have shown some photos below where I’ve been sewing the binding to the neckline and then where I’ve under stitched the seam to the binding to make it sit beautifully and turn to the wrong side with ease.
Sewing and understitching the binding
Once the understitching is complete it is just a case of pressing the binding to the inside of the garment and checking that you have a good finish before sewing it into place. Then sit back and admire your hard work! Ha!
The next part of the make was to fit the sleeves. These cap sleeves require two rows of gathering stitches to fit the armhole. As you can see in the picture below I have used the same colour thread to do this but if you are new to sewing it is wise to do these in a different colour so that they are easy to see for unpicking once stitched into place. To fit the sleeves you are turning the tee inside out, keeping the sleeves right side, popping them into the armholes, match the underarm seam and notches – make sure the double notch is at the back…and sew!
Gathering the sleeve
I love this part because you know you’ve broken the back of the make! All that remains is to hem the sleeves and bottom of the tee! Previously I have done this with shop bought binding on heavier cotton fabrics, I like to buy a contrast binding – nobody sees it but I think it looks pretty! Haha! On this occasion I have followed the pattern advice and simply turned the hems up twice. I chose to do this on this occasion because the fabric is so fine it wouldn’t have looked right with a firmer binding. You could of course make more binding from the remaining fabric if you have enough. I was happy to hem! I’ll be honest, it’s really not my favourite task!
So there we have it – One Grainline Studio Scout Tee. I absolutely love it and hope you do too. This pattern is perfect as an introduction to sewing or sewing with a fine fabric. Finer fabrics are a totally different ball game and you have to take a little more time and give a little more effort but I promise you – it’s absolutely worth it. Why don’t you pop across to D&H Fabrics and choose yourself a little project, you won’t regret it! The fabric selection is incredible, so many beauties….you’ll be spoilt for choice!
Take care all and happy sewing!