Pretty much from the get-go I knew I wanted to work with one of the twills carried by D&H, however I was a bit stumped on what to make with it. There have been some fabulous pant and overall patterns released this year that I’ve been dying to make, however I wasn’t sure I was ready to tackle a fitted pant not even two months postpartum. I also had an anorak jacket like the Kelly Anorak on my to-make list for a while, but was hesitant to do a detailed jacket because my sewing time is limited with a newborn as well. I finally stumbled upon the Waver Jacket by Papercut Patterns which was the perfect pattern for making this fabric shine.
Since it’s fall, I thought the pumpkin twill would make for a great seasonal layer. I tend to shy away from reds, yellows, and oranges in my wardrobe but what can I say—I’m a sucker for a good autumnal orange, and this twill delivers. This fabric is an 8.5oz cotton twill so its got some heft to it, but its a lovely weight to work with and sews easily on the machine, even through multiple layers. I also like that its just lightweight enough to not get too bulky when the waist of the jacket is cinched. It really feels great!
I was initially interested in the Waver jacket simply because of the mod vibe of the modeled photo in the product listing, but I soon realized it might fulfill what I was looking for in a fall inspired, minimal jacket. Basically I wanted a twill jacket with a full lining, hood, patch pockets, and a cinched waist, and the Waver gives me just that. I chose to use a cream and dusty mauve plaid flannel lining to amp up the cozy fall factor. Its not the fabric I initially had in mind for the lining but I absolutely love how it looks with the pumpkin twill. This Polka Dot Rayon in the D&H shop would also look so good with it too!
Because I went for a more minimal jacket (including abandoning some of the topstitching on the outside) I chose to integrate some more thoughtful details on the inside. First, I chose to adjust the hood lining to have a facing so the edge of the hood would be in the twill but I could still add a hood lining to match the rest of the jacket (the pattern has the maker construct the hood lining completely with the outer fabric). I also added cream satin piping to the hood facing as well as the inside of the jacket lining.
Adding piping is definitely a labor of love—especially when you have to unpick and re-sew the seam because you forgot to add the piping…twice…not like I did that or anything…But I so love the extra oomph it gives to the jacket. Hidden details like eccentric linings or neat embellishments on the inside of garments is one of my favorite design choices and I’m so glad I stuck to my plan and made sure to get that piping in there.
I also chose to alter the pocket shape. The pattern includes a regular square patch pocket but, knowing that shape isn’t ideal for me to hold my hands in, I chose to do a more comfortable slanted patch pocket instead. Now my hands just glide right in and stay toasty warm!
The original pattern uses buttons for the closure but after struggling to find a button I liked I decided to go for antique brass snaps. I ended up using nine snaps on my jacket—pretty much double the pattern recommendation—because I had gaping where the waist cinches. I actually love how it looks with nine snaps and feel like it needed the extra ones to be complete, but if you only want four or five closure points I suggest ditching the placement guide in the pattern so you can make sure to place a closure even with the inner waist drawstring.
As far as fit goes, per the recommendation of other makers on Instagram, I chose to size down one size and I’m so glad I did. The jacket is just roomy enough for layering but isn’t so oversized that it can’t be worn with only a blouse or t-shirt (which I’m prone to do). I often don’t like jackets with hoods because the hoods are always too big and fall over the top half of my face, but this hood is the perfect size for me. I shortened the sleeves by about half an inch and while I probably could’ve shortened them a little more, I’m honestly so used to sleeves being long on me in ready-to-wear that now it feels weird when I make something with proper length sleeves, so I’m ok with them being on the longer side. And at least for now the twill is stiff enough to scrunch up at the elbows and wrists, making the sleeves just right for me.
I’ve made a lot of outwear pieces in the past year but this jacket truly might be my favorite. The features of the Waver jacket pattern were just what I was looking for and the twill fabric is a perfect shade of autumn orange and feels great to wear. I’m feelin’ like one cool mom in this thing! And I’ll definitely be coming back to the shop for more twill for some Landers or Jenny overalls soon.